A trip round Scotland in an old Cornish Crabber Mk1, done for fun but also in aid of the Alzheimer's Society charity and to raise awareness of dementia in our society. See the website at www.eventoftheyear.co.uk for more information.
I awoke in the bay at Aultbea, Loch Ewe, to a strange muffled silence. I looked out to see, ...well, not a lot really. It was foggy. The first I had encountered on this trip. There were just a few grey outlines around the edge of the bay. So in true seaman fashion I turned over and had another snooze.
Come mid morning the sun had burned off the mist and replaced it with a fine drizzle. But as I had some distance to cover I donned waterproof jacket made a start. I had made plans to meet someone the following day, so wanted to get to a location that would be reasonably easy for him to get to. This was strange for me on this trip, having deadlines to meet! the beauty of this trip so far as been no deadlines. Sail when I see fit, when the wind and the weather allow, rather than having to go whatever.
I made my way tacking out of the loch passing the island mentioned previously, the gloriously named Isle of Ewe. (Did you say it out loud to someone? Go on, I dare you). There was a large coastguard vessel moored in the loch. It can be difficult to ascertain if these guys are actually at anchor or not because they tend to anchor by the stern (back) rather than the bows (pointy bit) and they keep their huge engines running 24x7. However he was stationary so I was able to tack quite close under his bows.
Coastguard at anchor in Loch Ewe
To keep to time I needed to use my engine to assist the sailing as the winds were light and I needed to make the headland at Rubha Reidh before the tide turned.
Rubha Reidh Light
With it's usual form as soon as I had rounded the point the wind died away completely and I was left to motor for quite a while before the wind returned as I passed Loch Gairloch. On rounding Rubha Reidh I got my first sight of Skye, grey in the distance.
A first glimpse of Skye
I was tempted to call it a night by the time I reached Gairloch, but with the returned wind I pressed on to my intended destination in Loch Torridon, well actually in Loch Shieldaig which is inside Loch Torridon. Strangely Upper Loch Torridon lies off of Loch Shieldaig.
Somewhere between Loch Gairloch and Loch Torridon the sun set. This was going to be a late finish for me! I finally wound up anchoring close to the village of Sheildaig, tucked away behind it and an island covered densely with Scots pines. It was so quiet here the silence almost hurt your ears. But the downside of this windless peace was my first encounter with the Scottish midge. Just a minor skermish, but maybe a warning of battles to come!
Todays Factoid
Rubha Reidh means Smooth Headland in Gaelic. It is a prominent point jutting out into The Minch about halfway between Stoer Head and the Isle of Skye.
The building of a lighthouse was first proposed by David Stevenson, a cousin of Robert Louis Stevenson in 1853 but, with familiar emphasis on economy, the Board of Trade refused to approve the proposed expenditure of £5,000.
Finally, in May 1908, the Board of Trade sanctioned the expenditure of £14,900 It opened in 1912, but until the road was built in 1962 the only access to the lighthouse was by sea.
If anyone out there is having trouble donating at the justgiving sites (behind company firewalls, don't trust the internet with my card details or just don't want to give that way, etc) you can mail me a cheque direct. To do this just send me an email and I'll send you the details.
Don't forget to drop me a note at onpassage@dhippey.co.uk to sign up to be informed when blog updates appear.
Please share this site with your friends and family
( Especially the rich ones :-) )
If you came to this blog from the main website www.eventoftheyear.co.uk you will hopefully have had a look around the site and be aware of what I'm up to, both the adventure itself and the fact that I'm aiming to raise awareness of dementia in our society and to raise money for the Alzheimer's charities.
I'm doing this trip for fun and funding the trip myself, but while I'm on this venture you can do your bit to by supporting the Alzheimer's charities through either www.justgiving.com/david-hippey or www.justgiving.com/david-hippey-scotland
First I must give you some fantastic news on the charity giving front.
Funds raised for Alzheimer Scotland has now reached over £1000 in donations, plus £500 matched giving through my employer, plus gift aid and for the Alzheimer's Society, not far behind at over £800 in donations plus gift aid. On behalf of the charities and myself a BIG THANK YOU to all who have donated so far.
Back to the plot.
I awoke in Ullapool to the sound of a boat bumping gently into the side of Ruach, it was the harbour launch/water taxi come to collect my mooring dues. It was something very late o'clock. I had slept a sound but exhausted sleep. The crossing from Stornoway had taken more out of me than I thought and my energy reserves were still depleted. I did very little but read and doze the whole day.
Next day I felt much better so time to go ashore and restock fresh provisions.
In the past Ullapool has not been a friendly place for 'yachties' as it was a busy commercial port. The pilot books still reflect this, but as fishing declines it is looking to diversify and as part of this diversification the harbour is trying hard to court visiting yacht crews. There are now a good number of visitors mooring buoys available and no need to pump up the inflatable for the trip ashore as there is a water taxi service which is included in the mooring fee. Brilliant service! Ashore there is also a new'ish Tesco's store an easy walk away. Put this together with the scenery of the Summer Isles and the head of Loch Broom Ullapool is certainly worth a visit if you are up in this neck of the woods.
I headed to the supermarket first then decided to celebrate my second Minch crossing with Fish & Chips served in the sunshine on an open deck above the restaurant with views over the loch and harbour.
Mid-afternoon.
Once back on the boat I chose to have a gentle sail further into the head of Loch Broom before returning to my mooring buoy for another evening. The wind was once again astern as I ran down the loch. On the way down I watched a guy flying a bird of prey on the shore.
I realised that running all the way to the head of the loch would mean that I would have to either beat all the way back out again against the wind or if that proved to be too much like hard work I could always use the motor. However the water was flat with no waves to impede my progress and Loch Broom is mainly steep sided which means you can tack to and fro across the loch only needing to go-about when you can reach out and touch the greenery on the banks thereby making the most of each tack. I rose to the challenge and thoroughly enjoyed the evenings exertion.
Narrows at Corry Point halfway down Loch Broom
The following day it was time to move on again, the forecast was changeable and so was my destination to reflect this. The winds started off very light and fluky, so my first possible objective was to go 'next door' to Little Loch Broom, but I knew I really wanted to get beyond that. Next possible place was in was Gruinard Bay, but I didn't really fancy this as Gruinard Bay is home to Anthrax Island, more properly called Gruinard Island.
Anthrax Island
Todays Factoid
Gruinard Island was the site where the Island was intentionally contaminated with the Anthrax bacterium in 1942 during tests of biological warfare weapons. The Island was not declared safe until a clean-up was carried out in 1986.
For peace of mind this was not my ideal stopping place!!
However next to Gruinard, to the West, is Loch Ewe. Upon reading my chart I just knew I had to go there as Loch Ewe contains the most romantic island in the whole of the UK. It's not specially pretty, it's not in anyway enchanted, but take a look at the chart extract below. Just say the name of the island out loud to someone you love, your significant other or even maybe your boss!
If anyone out there is having trouble donating at the justgiving sites (behind company firewalls, don't trust the internet with my card details or just don't want to give that way, etc) you can mail me a cheque direct. To do this just send me an email and I'll send you the details.
Don't forget to drop me a note at onpassage@dhippey.co.uk to sign up to be informed when blog updates appear.
Please share this site with your friends and family
( Especially the rich ones :-) )
If you came to this blog from the main website www.eventoftheyear.co.uk you will hopefully have had a look around the site and be aware of what I'm up to, both the adventure itself and the fact that I'm aiming to raise awareness of dementia in our society and to raise money for the Alzheimer's charities.
I'm doing this trip for fun and funding the trip myself, but while I'm on this venture you can do your bit to by supporting the Alzheimer's charities through either www.justgiving.com/david-hippey or www.justgiving.com/david-hippey-scotland
I didn't get chance to publish much about Stornoway last time so here are a few bits and bobs.
Todays Factoid
Stornoway is the only official town in the Outer Hebrides.
As you will be aware I managed to miss the HebCeltFest almost entirely, which was a shame, the only part I heard was a few strains drifting through the window as I lay in bed at the Martin's house, then a snippet of some pipers marching onto the site as I returned to living on the boat .
However all was not lost, I did make the final meal and prize giving for Sail Hebrides, they were a good crowd and I was made most welcome.
In addition it was with great pleasure that Jim and me we were able to take the Martin family (The family who looked after me while I recuperated) out for a trip around the harbour on our boats to see the tall ships parade of sail as they departed for Lerwick to start the next leg of their race to Norway.
Ruach dressed for the Tall Ships Parade of Sail
Nancy (One of my 'rescuers') aboard Ruach
Todays Factoid No2
In 1918 the troop ship Iolaire left the Kyle of Lochalsh with almost three hundred navel ratings aboard, returning to their homes on Lewis following the first world war. A gale blew up from the South in the small hours of New Years Day and the Iolaire hit Holm Rock in the entrance of Stornoway Harbour and sank. Over 200 men drowned, their loss affecting almost every family on the island. Most of the survivors owe their lives to John Macleod who jumped into the sea with a line and swam to the shore giving the men a hand hold to follow to safety.
Guest cameraman for the Tall Ships section of this video is young Donald Martin, who ably assisted while I sailed the boat.
At the end of this short video is an ancient set of standing stones, thought to be around 4000 years old and then a fantastic beach near the Butt of Lewis (stop sniggering at the back!)
If anyone out there is having trouble donating at the justgiving sites (behind company firewalls, don't trust the internet with my card details or just don't want to give that way, etc) you can mail me a cheque direct. To do this just send me an email and I'll send you the details.
Don't forget to drop me a note at onpassage@dhippey.co.uk to sign up to be informed when blog updates appear.
Please share this site with your friends and family
( Especially the rich ones :-) )
If you came to this blog from the main website www.eventoftheyear.co.uk you will hopefully have had a look around the site and be aware of what I'm up to, both the adventure itself and the fact that I'm aiming to raise awareness of dementia in our society and to raise money for the Alzheimer's charities.
I'm doing this trip for fun and funding the trip myself, but while I'm on this venture you can do your bit to by supporting the Alzheimer's charities through either www.justgiving.com/david-hippey or www.justgiving.com/david-hippey-scotland
I'm pleased to say I'm back on passage. Thanks for all your prayers and best wishes. The Doc has discharged me with a stock of horse-strength antibiotics and dire warnings about ensuring I complete the full course.
My first passage since being back on the boat was a bit of a marathon 46 miles across the North Minch between the Outer Hebrides and the Scottish mainland. The wind was a good solid breeze of between a force 4 and 5, the sea was quite lumpy with waves being between 1.5 and 2 metres high, the Minch is famed for it's short steep waves.
It all started off quite calm leaving Stornoway with the wind almost behind me, which meant the wind was going to be in the forecast direction for the majority of the trip. The breeze was very calm at this point and I did contemplate hoisting the topsail while in the lee of the Eye peninsular, but I'm glad that I waited until I was clear of the land before making that decision, as once free of the land I felt the full force of the wind. Also because of the waves 'Otto' the auto-pilot was not up to taking the helm so I hand steered the whole way across. The last three hours were made a little uncomfortable as a lazy wave had decided to lollop aboard hitting me smack in the small of my back instantly soaking my fleece, sweat top, shirt, trousers and undies. Not only that but a little of it managed to find it's way into the cabin too. Thankfully not too much, but a lesson learned; put both washboards in place when waves are large and the wind is abaft the beam. I'd read the books, done the courses but had failed to put that knowledge into practice. From there on it did make me a little nervous each time a wave broke somewhere close behind me with a strange schwwwwwwsh erupting in my ear. Thankfully no more waves wanted a lift to Ullapool. I completed the 46.4 miles in 9 hours, that is an average of over 5 knots for the trip. Not bad for the conditions. I tied up to the first visitors mooring buoy I found, wolfed down a hot meal of Fellside Beef Chile con Carne and pasta then collapsed into a long heavy sleep.
Apologies for the lack of photos or video in this update but the t'internet connection is much slower than wet string where I am just now and I wanted to get this update to you to let you know I am still alive.
I'm currently so much better than when this darned infection first took hold, but still have a little way to go before I'll be firing on all cylinders.
If anyone out there is having trouble donating at the justgiving sites (behind company firewalls, don't trust the internet with my card details or just don't want to give that way, etc) you can mail me a cheque direct. To do this just send me an email and I'll send you the details.
Don't forget to drop me a note at onpassage@dhippey.co.uk to sign up to be informed when blog updates appear.
Please share this site with your friends and family
( Especially the rich ones :-) )
If you came to this blog from the main website www.eventoftheyear.co.uk you will hopefully have had a look around the site and be aware of what I'm up to, both the adventure itself and the fact that I'm aiming to raise awareness of dementia in our society and to raise money for the Alzheimer's charities.
That's me in dry dock, not Ruach, but more of that later.
I spent a few days in Kinlochbervie, again either too much wind or not enough wind. On the last day stuck in port Barry offered to take myself and two other stormbound sailors for a trip by road to some of the local lochs and anchorages, ending up for a drink at the far side of the bridge at Kylesku. What a fantastic cruising ground this is, set in spectacular scenery.
Looking towards the Bad Call Islands
I'm not sure how to title this picture, Maybe "last of the summer wine" as Barry, left is 67, Maurice centre is 82 and Jim on the right is just not telling"(More of Jim later), maybe "The Good, the Bad and the Ugly" but I'm not naming who is who. Whatever they are called we had a great day out
Looking towards the Handa Island Wildlife Sanctuary from Tarbet
The following day it was a seven am kick off for the trip across the Minch to Stornoway. Four yachts departed at roughly the same time, Maurice peeled away left to savour the lochs and anchorages we had spied the previous day, leaving three yachts to continue the fifty mile crossing.
Farewell Kinlochbervie
We were soon widely dispersed as I had had my sails up since leaving Loch Inchard whereas the other two had set off and continued under engine alone. In truth I was being wildly optimistic as the winds were very light, at one point my instruments indicated I was to arrive in Stornoway at 10am, not the same day, not the next even, but the following day. I admitted defeat and fired up the iron topsail. To keep fuel consumption to a minimum for what was going to be a bit of a marathon crossing I set the throttle to push me along at 4.5 knots, this was fine for a few hours until the engine started to overheat, not dangerously so, but hotter than usual. I lifted the engine hatch to see an animated fountain of salty water spraying droplets all over the inside of the engine bay. Was this to be the first major mechanical breakdown of what has been so far a trouble free trip? (Erm, no, not the first because what I haven't told you so far is that I haven't had astern available to me since I left Elie in the Firth of Forth, several hundred miles ago. It has all been avante! avante! But that is another storey)
I discovered the fault was with the raw water pump, it looked like a bearing or seal had failed, so I reasoned that as the pump was still pumping I could continue as long as I kept monitoring the situation, resting the engine whenever a zepher came along or as needed. My logic for this course of action was that anywhere within striking distance on the mainland was probably less equipped to deal with this type of problem than Stornoway, the capitol of the Western Isles.
On we plodded eating up the miles. I broke out the Ukulele for light relief from the hum of the motor. That was a first for this trip, playing the Uke while under-way.
At first I couldn't see the Island chain which is the Outer Hebrides, but I knew where they were because of the line of clouds that gave away their existence. Then a few peaks appeared followed by a long low blip on the forward horizon. The hills behind me faded into blue/grey washes on misty blue canvas of sky before slipping away over the horizon astern.
About six miles out from Stornoway Dolphins came to play with me. My filming of this is not great, I couldn't see a thing in the view finder as the sun was so bright, the camera was on the wrong setting half the time, I was far far too excited, but the experience was brilliant!
Sailing with Dolphins
Taking something like 14 hours to complete the crossing while nursing a sick engine was some achievement.
Another impressive achievement was on the following day stripping down the old pump to see what parts would be needed, aided and abetted by Jim (The blind leading the blind). finding that this pump was of a much older vintage than the manual I had for it. A worst case scenario was going to be a complete new pump, which of course "they don't make 'em like that any more", and the replacement costing the thick end of £200, plus carriage to the islands, plus whatever odds and ends would be needed to connect the new pump to the old fittings, then of course plus the dreaded value added tax at 20%, only to find the problem seems to be a blockage in the greaser tube. I may still need to replace a small plastic bush at about £6 plus shipping and tax and it has cost me the skin off my knuckles and a days labour, but I now know more about my boat and at this time I am one happy bunny.
However, that was yesterday as they say. Now the reason for the title to this update. I woke up Monday morning, quite early for me, hands and feet like icebergs but with a head as hot as fire, and oh how I ached.
Thankfully after going for a walk to try to get my temperature to equalise between head and feet I realised I had been here before, I suspected that the flu like symptoms were coming from an infection called cellulitus. Because of the raging temperature I knew I needed to get to a doctor ASAP before I started to speak total gobbledegook (worse than normal that is). Harbour office to get docs appointment, taxi to medical centre, ages waiting for the doctor; I could feel 'me' slipping away. Once with the doc I blurted out what was going on, what I diagnosed and what I needed, that was the max dose antibiotic treatment she could prescribe for me now! Thankfully she was very understanding (I bet doctors hate patients who think they know best). She also tried to get me into the hospital for observation as I was alone on the boat with a fairly serious illness, but there was no room for me there. In which case she arranged to call me later to monitor how I was progressing. Finally back to the boat via the chemist for sleep.
At the boat I was met by Jim and some people from the Maritime Festival. Mandy, one of the organisers took one look at me and said when she completed doing her stint at the Festival she would return and whisk me away to a land based bed to recover.
Little did I know what other plans were being put into operation. Nancy, who goes to my Church in Livingston, was visiting her daughter Allison and family who have recently moved to Stornoway. Penny, my wife, txt'd Nancy asking if Allison knew of anyone who could put me up for a few days as the hotels and B&Bs are full due to the HebCeltFest, Tall Ships and Maritime Festival all taking place this week. (I had met Allison, Paddy and the three boys the day previous for the first time and I knew that they already had a full'ish house with Nancy staying there too). The first thing I knew was being woken from sleep by the sound of my mobile phone, to hear Allison tell me she was coming to pick me up. Poor Alan, at 16 and a half, turfed out of his bed and this poor old bloke he hardly knew had taken over his room. For the next three days I lay there only raising for visits to the doctors and calls of nature. Alan, I cannot tell you how much I appreciate your sacrifice. To Donald and Ian too, all three of you being pushed into the one room for an indeterminable period for me, you have my thanks.
On the fourth day a significant improvement. Now slightly more compos mentis. I'm able to write this blog, that's just where I'm up to now. I am totally indebted to Paddy and Allison for opening their home so readily. I'm their first non-family guest here on the island, but now I feel like part of the family.
So far while here I've missed the majority of the Maritime Festival, missed the arrival of most of the Tall Ships and the start of the HebCeltFest. But such is life eh.
I guess it may yet be a few days before I have anything more to blog about. So your inboxes will receive a well earned rest while I continue my recovery.
For me, time now for pills, five four times a day is my prescription!!!
If anyone out there is having trouble donating at the justgiving sites (behind company firewalls, don't trust the internet with my card details or just don't want to give that way, etc) you can mail me a cheque direct. To do this just send me an email and I'll send you the details.
Don't forget to drop me a note at onpassage@dhippey.co.uk to sign up to be informed when blog updates appear.
Please share this site with your friends and family
( Especially the rich ones :-) )
If you came to this blog from the main website www.eventoftheyear.co.uk you will hopefully have had a look around the site and be aware of what I'm up to, both the adventure itself and the fact that I'm aiming to raise awareness of dementia in our society and to raise money for the Alzheimer's charities.
Todays Factoid - Cape Wrath, sounds frightening doesn't it. Well it is a place that can have angry tides, it's where Atlantic storms roll in un-impeded from the US, Canada and the tip of Greenland, with over 3000 miles of fetch. To confuse the waters even more, the tides that run up the west side of our little island tend to flow in in a North Easterly direction and ebb out to the South West. At Cape Wrath these tidal flows meet and fight for dominance with the Atlantic flow.
However for all that Cape Wrath doesn't mean Angry Cape. Wrath is a corruption from the Norse word hvarf, meaning turning place, the point where Vikings used to turn east for home or south to the Hebrides. A similar meaning to Cape in fact. So Cape Wrath means Cape Cape. (So good they named it twice). But as Private Frazer from Dad's Army was wont to say, 'it's a wild and lonely place'
From a sailing point of view in a small boat, the worst thing about Cape Wrath is its remoteness. From leaving Loch Eriboll there is almost nowhere to hide if it turns nasty until reaching Loch Inchard with Kinlochbervie tucked into its northern shore over thirty miles distant. Comparing this with Duncansby Head, the previous 'big corner' top right of the map, which has safe havens just a couple of miles either side of the point.
I set my alarm for six am to get me on the move for six-thirty. I wanted to reach Faraid Head off Durness by nine. Best laid plans and all that. When I arose the wind was coming hard from the North, totally the wrong direction. Still I thought I could still make the appointed time if I motored out of Eriboll. As I progressed North out of Eriboll The winds went light, then went West (Bad for my trip), went South West (even worse), then died completely. Where was the forecast Easterly? I arrived at Farraid Head just as a little Easterly sneaked into the wind. The water off the head was as lumpy as school mashed potatos. Glad I'd kept my sea legs handy.
I began to doubt I could make the the next seven miles to the Cape if it continued like this. Ruach was dropping into holes then pointing into the air to slam down onto the back of the next wave.
Thankfully past the head things calmed down and I started to make reasonable progress.
A first sight of Cape Wrath after passing the lumpy water off Faraid Head
By the time I got to the Cape itself there was just a long Atlantic swell and a wind well astern. The sun shone and the grin widened. I was here, I WAS HERE! I passed close in to the Cape, between it and Duslic rock. The long swell was breaking over the rock as it passed. The Cape towered over to my left, at around 400 feet (122m) the cliffs here are some of the highest in the UK.
Cape Wrath
Cape Wrath behind me!
Once passed the Cape I continued South towards Loch Inchard. Coming in the opposite direction was the Hebridean Princess. This vessel is an old CalMac ferry which on retirement was converted to be a luxury small cruise liner that is charted by the rich and the famous. It is reported that this was the 'secret location' that a certain royal couple spent their short honeymoon on earlier this year. However who was on her at this time remains a secret.
The Hebridean Princess
As I approach Loch Inchard I spied another gaff rigged yacht coming out. This turned out to be the yacht 'kipper' built in Whitby on the English East Coast. Her skipper is Barry Pearson, who was the nephew of the controversial artist Stephen Pearson. Barry is also an artist (among many other talents). You can see some of his work here
'Kipper'
Over the next few days the weather couldn't make up its mind, it was either too windy or no wind at all, so Ruach took root in the harbour at Kinlochbervie. On one windless evening I went out on 'kipper' for a cruise down loch Inchard with Barry. The water is so clear and the edges of the loch are so free of obstruction that as we went down the loch we could have reached out and touched the sides. Barry tells me that at the right state of tide he will do this and pull a pan full muscles from the rocks. We spent a very pleasant evening creeping up on the local flora and fauna.
View from my pontoon mooring - Kinlochbervie
Well now, on passing Cape Wrath phase one of my trip is over. I have achieved what I set out to do.
I have taken my little ship over the top of Scotland!
No longer 'David goes over the top!', now 'David has gone over the top!'
The next phase is to explore some of the islands around the Hebrides and visit some of the Lochs along this shore. I hope to participate in the Hebridean Maritime Festival in Stornoway which is run at the same time'ish as the Heb Celt Fest. If you are at either of these events pop by Ruach and say 'Hi'
If anyone out there is having trouble donating at the justgiving sites (behind company firewalls, don't trust the internet with my card details or just don't want to give that way, etc) you can mail me a cheque direct. To do this just send me an email and I'll send you the details.
Don't forget to drop me a note at onpassage@dhippey.co.uk to sign up to be informed when blog updates appear.
Please share this site with your friends and family
( Especially the rich ones :-) )
If you came to this blog from the main website www.eventoftheyear.co.uk you will hopefully have had a look around the site and be aware of what I'm up to, both the adventure itself and the fact that I'm aiming to raise awareness of dementia in our society and to raise money for the Alzheimer's charities.
I'm doing this trip for fun and funding the trip myself, but while I'm on this venture you can do your bit to by supporting the Alzheimer's charities through either www.justgiving.com/david-hippey or www.justgiving.com/david-hippey-scotland
I spent a few idyllic days in Skullomie, taking in the scenery and enjoying the remoteness. I had mobile phone signal if I wandered off up the hill, but only the barest trickle of internet access enough for the odd mail home. I was getting t'internet withdrawal symptoms.
I had moored at the head of the harbour over a smooth mud & sand bottom, so at low water Ruach dried out while waiting to be lifted by the next tide. The winds came mainly from the South West which meant I was totally protected in the harbour. The raising and falling of the tides was done with such gentleness that it never once disturbed my sleep. I just woke occasionally with this strange sensation of my head being lower than my feet when I moored the boat with the bows were pointing North.
Oystercatchers combed the intertidal line just feet from my cockpit. Different types of small fish competed for food amongst the seaweed in the shadow of my keel. All fascinating to watch. Sheep bleated across the bay and cows gave a long low moo at milking time up the hill. It was like being a million miles from nowhere.
Today's Factoid - Skullomie, pretty as it is, was only built for one purpose. It was never built as a fishing harbour, or even a supply harbour for the old VIC boats. The purpose of the harbour was to load boats full of a human cargo as part of the Scottish clearances.
One evening, about five o'clock, I decided to take a sail over to Talmine where my wife Penny and I had spent a land-based holiday some years previous. I sailed out North East past the tip of the Rabbit Islands, it was a really nice wind, the sails were pulling well over the flat calm sea. Ruach egged me on to keep going North East and I egged Ruach on, although unplanned maybe, just maybe, we were going to round Whiten Head and get into Loch Eriboll instead of reaching Talmine. Eight miles out and just about peeping into the entrance of Loch Eriboll the tide turned with a strength that said NO. So I turned Ruach's head around and we romped back across a now rolling sea to Skullomie like two naughty school children. We averaged 3.5 knots out and 6.5 knots back on almost a reciprocal track.
While I've been out in the wilderness I've not been idle. I had said that I intend bringing Ruach back in a better condition than when I left. So see the before and after shots below and see what you think?
Before.....
.....After
Just a start, plenty more to do!!
Today's Factoid 2 - In the eighteenth century the Kyle of Tongue was the scene of a sea battle between a French and a British battleship. It transpires that the British vessel won the skirmish and the French surrendered. But the irony of this is that both vessels were captained by the Irish Captains.
This leg of the trip over the North shore of this land has been remarkably remote with only one vessel spotted in the whole week since leaving Wick.
Ships that pass in the night day
The following day, the day I had originally set aside as the day to nip round to Loch Eriboll, or Loch 'Orrible as the seamen used to call it as they waited while mustering an Atlantic convoy in the war, the wind was fair so again I took the North East track past the Rabbit isles to Whiten Head and into the Loch. Once away from the Head and it's powerful tides I had a gentle run into the loch to Anchor on the South side of Ard Neckie. This Loch is quite spectacular for it's features. Pinnacle stacks of rock stand sentinel over the entrance, followed by caves on its north Eastern shore, then further in the shores widen with both high and low vistas. This was much different from the Loch 'Orrible I had imagined. I was very grateful in the security of the replacement anchor I had obtained in Wick as the main Danforth anchor I had brought with me had been bent in a blow way back in Elie which seems like years ago.
Whiten Head - Loch Eriboll
Caves - Loch Eriboll
My time in Eriboll was all to brief as the conditions the following day were perfect for an assult on Cape Wrath.
........But more of that next time.
If anyone out there is having trouble donating at the justgiving sites (behind company firewalls, don't trust the internet with my card details or just don't want to give that way, etc) you can mail me a cheque direct. To do this just send me an email and I'll send you the details.
Don't forget to drop me a note at onpassage@dhippey.co.uk to sign up to be informed when blog updates appear.
Please share this site with your friends and family
( Especially the rich ones :-) )
If you came to this blog from the main website www.eventoftheyear.co.uk you will hopefully have had a look around the site and be aware of what I'm up to, both the adventure itself and the fact that I'm aiming to raise awareness of dementia in our society and to raise money for the Alzheimer's charities.
I'm doing this trip for fun and funding the trip myself, but while I'm on this venture you can do your bit to by supporting the Alzheimer's charities through either www.justgiving.com/david-hippey or www.justgiving.com/david-hippey-scotland
